La Vigne Aux Gamins, Brut,

Crisp and clean on the aromatics as they drift out of the glass, gentle persistence to the bubbles, slight hint of honeysuckle on the opening notes, and a gentle hit of frangipane, green apple and citrus, with gentle toasted notes and plenty of fresh acidities, good balance. The only single plot of the Thiénpont range, produced most years (all except two) since 1997, 0.5ha in Avize slopes. This was the latest growing season of the last 40 years, with picking beginning only at the end of September, around two to three weeks behind usual schedule. 8.4TA, 3.01ph, 4g/l malic (they do no malolactic fermentation here), with 6g/l dosage. A Champagne that is very much ready to enjoy now, but will deepen further over the next decade. Nicolas Uriel chef de caves.