Blanc de Noirs, 2008

We love the 2008 vintage in Champagne. Capricious at first, the season blossomed in September when an extended period of sun-kissed days and cool nights arrived, giving the crisp grapes the perfect end of season boost. The resulting harvest provided fruit with ripe clear profiles and exceptional acidity; the ideal material for making very fine Champagne. Whilst there are many wonderful wines in 2004 and 2006, 2008 to us is undoubtedly the finest vintage since 2002. Philipponnat’s Blanc de Noirs 2008 is the very first 100% Pinot Noir from the estate and it completely swept us off our feet. In contrast to Clos des Goisses, which generally requires many years in bottle to truly reveal its greatness, the Blanc de Noirs is already wonderfully expressive and generous. “Pure pleasure” was the cry that went up when the team tasted it here in London. There is wonderful clarity to the decidedly red fruit character on display, great precision and a sense of expression that is all Blanc de Noirs, full yet crisp. It is superbly well crafted precisely because it offers so much while demanding so little – weightless flavours touch on notes of summer red fruits, almond and baking spices, before finishing with a touch of smoke and sunshine. We absolutely love this Champagne, the price seems exceedingly fair for a vintage Blanc de Noir Cuvee from a great house and it should continue to shine for at least a decade.