Blanc de Noirs, 2008

The generous intensity of the 2012 vintage is obvious from the get-go as this comes charging out of the gates with notes of brandy snap, autumn raspberry and salted ginger biscuits. The palate is rich, broad and inviting yet there’s plenty of structure and freshness to ensure each mouthful of golden fruit simply makes you want to come back for more. This is a first-rate bottle that is drinking beautifully now, with all the ripe Pinot Noir fruit you’d expect from these maestros of Mareuil. Philipponnat’s Blanc de Noirs 2012 has a superb pitch and definition to the rich, spiced red fruit character. It was a growing season that season that particularly suited Pinot Noir; the crop naturally thinned by hail and frost, allowed to achieve excellent ripeness under warm September skies. Tasted now on numerous occasions, and it is without doubt the best rendition of this cuvee Philipponant has made. It takes the wonderful steely line of the 2008 and covers it in an extra layer of bold, precise, concentrated fruit. Beautifully structured, it has a high definition mousse that caresses the palate, supporting expressive notes of beignet lemon peel, golden spices and bright red fruits, all underpinned by a beam of fabulous acidity. It has huge character but also precision, with as much emphasis on flavour as freshness. It’s a delicious combination and a year after disgorgement (carried out in May 2018), it is in a very good place indeed.