Sancerre, Equilibre, 2023

Terrifically stony and focused on the nose, with notes of cool white stones, fennel seed and citrus zest, alongside a touch of gooseberry. Really mineral, cool, white and mouthwatering. On the palate this is more about stones than fruit: firm, pared back and saline, with both verticality and breadth to its structure. As it sits in the glass and rolls across the palate, you begin to glimpse the fruit tucked in behind the stones: perfectly ripe gooseberries and nectarines, with a touch of amaro-like orange pith on the finish. Returning to the glass, blackcurrant leaf emerges, adding a wonderful touch of verdant complexity. Superb purity.