Châteauneuf du Pape, Cuvée Felix, 1998

Deep ruby-red. Huge, roasted nose features maraschino cherry and an exotic hint of apricot; an obvious low-SO2 sample that could be fresher. Powerful, viscous and full-bodied; impressively concentrated but less vibrant today than the above. Just short of heavy, in the way of so many low-acid special cuvees from superripe fruit. Finishes impressively long and powerful, with tannins buried in fruit. My score may prove to be conservative.