critic reviews
Last year I underrated the 2000 Cote Rotie La Mordoree, probably because I tasted the 2000s side by side with what was undoubtedly a great vintage in the northern Rhone, 1999. In any event, from bottle, this 2000 Cote Rotie is far better than it tasted from barrel. Offering up scents of white flowers, black olives, cassis, and roasted notes, it is a seamless effort with well-integrated acidity and tannin as well as a big, plush, concentrated style that will provide delicious up-front drinking. Anticipated maturity: now-2012. These uncompromising offerings from a young genius are not meant for consumers who want something to drink immediately. They are the essence of bio-dynamically farmed vineyard sites cropped incredibly low, given extended fermentations with indigenous yeasts, and rarely touched until they go into the bottle unfined and unfiltered. In most vintages, the wines are not even racked off their lees, which only adds to their natural style. These are truly remarkable wines, but for most readers, patience is the operative rule as they generally need a good 8-10 years to strut their stuff. Once moribund, over the last 12 years, this firm has become one of the reference points for nearly all the Rhone Valley appellations since the brash yet immensely talented Michel Chapoutier took over in the late eighties. The single vineyard offerings are as good as Rhone Valley wines can be. Moreover, Chapoutier continues to upgrade the quality of those wines offered in more significant quantities than the 500 or so cases each of the single vineyard offerings. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
Good bright, ruby-tinged red. Spicy aromas of currant, raspberry and woodsmoke. Fat, silky and full, with enticing sweetness. Very rich, fruity style, finishing with broad, sweet tannins and new oak notes of spice and caramel. Not especially vibrant but satisfying and long.