critic reviews
Inky ruby. Powerful, mineral-accented blueberry, kirsch, cassis and vanilla aromas are complemented by suggestions of succulent flowers, allspice, smoky bacon and incense. Coats the palate with alluringly sweet, finely etched black and blue fruit preserve, spicecake, mocha, olive paste and violet pastille flavors that are underscored by a vein of smoky minerality. Shows outstanding energy for its brawn and finishes impressively long, smoky and broad, with mounting tannins and gentle closing grip. 50% new oak.
As usual, Chapoutier's 2018 Ermitage l'Ermite is a standout among standouts. Crushed stone, blueberries, even a touch of herb feature on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is cool and crunchy but also ripe and generous. It's rich and long, with a firm, granitic structure that should enable two-plus decades of aging. This has it all.