Laurentiuslay, Riesling, Alte Reben, Trocken, 2023

Fresh lemon and citrus oils grace the nose with a dry, darting stony salt-laced minerality. 2023 feels pared back and detailed, carefully towing the line between delicious, present fruits and a more serious, intellectual finish. Laurentiuslay is the top site in the village of Leiwen. The soils are grey slate and hard stone, and the Carl Loewen vines are an impressive 105 years old, fully ungrafted. Fermented and aged in traditional fuder barrels, bottled in April before the weather warms.