Maximin Grünhauser Bruderberg, Riesling, Kabinett,

On the nose, clover and apple blossom vie with yeasty fermentative notes and a whiff of CO2. The firm, buoyant palate features generously juicy fresh apple and honeydew melon supported by a natural sense of sweetness, with a squeeze of lemon adding to the animation and refreshment of a lusciously persistent finish that’s transparent to subtle suggestions of wet stone. For the second vintage in a row, this least-distinguished terroir among the three Grünhaus monopoles has launched an irresistible charm offensive. For more than a decade, von Schubert has tried to limit bottlings from this diminutive site to one per vintage, with the further intention that the bottling in question should be stylistically consistent from year to year. For at least half a dozen years, that style was virtually dry and the wine labeled without Prädikat. In 2011, fruit from this site “insisted” on being a Spätlese. In 2012, it occupied the role of subtly sweet Kabinett to which it returned in 2015 and which strikes me as ideally suited to the talents of its distinctive terroir.