Maximin Grünhauser Bruderberg, Riesling, Kabinett, 2017
“The Kabinetts this year really demonstrate the terroir differences between our sites”, says Maximin Von Schubert. We’d go one step further and say that Grunhaus produced some of the most exciting and memorable Kabinetts we tasted in vintage 2020. The coolest site of the three, Bruderberg is always the last to be harvested and has a hugely expressive, slightly wild, brambly character that we absolutely love. Bold, open-hearted and bright with a core of lemon-gold fruit, limes, fine herbs and a fizzing freshness. 51g/l residual sugar and 7.5% ABV.
critic reviews
I have seen this bottling very favorably reviewed by excellent tasters, but when I encountered it last in late August 2018, I found too much of an overlay of yeastiness and SO2 to be more than cautious in praising its virtues, which include a glossy, buoyant midpalate and generously juicy apple, lime and honeydew melon fruit. I don’t doubt it will exhibit stamina in bottle, but how much charm or complexity is hard to say. In my long experience with the often ingratiating wines from this tiny hill adjacent to but distinct from the Abtsberg-Herrenberg slope, they seldom if ever approach the complex fruit-mineral interaction of which Abtsberg and Herrenberg Rieslings are capable.