Maximin Grünhauser Herrenberg, Riesling, Eiswein, 2009

A truly outstanding Eiswein produced in truly exceptional circumstances. Picking took place on the 19th December, mid-way through perhaps the coldest winter the region has ever seen. It lasted four hours, from 8am in the morning till noon, in full sunshine and at no point did the temperature rise above -15 degrees celcius. The coldest Eiswein harvest in the estate's memory. The grapes were so deeply frozen that no pressing could be carried out until the 20th, at which time the fuder 82 was the first to be pressed. No botrytised grapes were used. The two cuvees both record a staggering 300 g/l residual sugar, 12.5 g/l acidity and an abv of 6.5%. The straight Eiswein is a beautifully bright, green tinged colour. It explodes from the glass, at once pure and heady with a clear cut nose of orange blossom, Seville orange, crystallised citrus and lime zest, then honey, steel and slate form the backbone of a palate alive with salty touches, bright juicy acids and a Fibonacci like sequence of intricate flavours that unravel endlessly through the finish. Spellbinding.