Saarburger Rausch, Riesling, Spätlese, 2011

The Zillikens are famed for their library and love to open old bottles. The ’11 Rausch Spätlese is showing the first signs of tertiary development; a touch of cep here and truffle there with a hint of vanilla pod consistent with a warmer year. Nut oils and bitter orange marmalade with the smoke of a grilled peach. There is no botrytis at play here, just fully ripe grapes. A slight firmness in the mid-palate suggests that there’s no hurry to drink it.