Monzinger Halenberg, Riesling, Spätlese,

Notes of crushed stone along with smoky black tea and machine oil mingle on the nose with intimations of the ripe apple, honeydew melon and grapefruit that then dominate on the palate. There is a sense of inner-mouth restraint here, reinforced by cooling green herbal accents, when compared with the corresponding Frühlingsplätzchen in all of its effusive florality and ripeness. And for now at least, this Halenberg lacks that sibling’s textural refinement or its remarkable balance. But the finish here is superbly sustained, its mineral and herbal nuances intriguingly persistent, and either wine will be a joy to follow.