Monzinger Halenberg, Riesling, Spätlese, 2018
Intense green apple skin and wild ferment notes. On the palate lively and animated salty green apple notes, lovely succulence and also intensity; this has some real concentration but manages to remain light on its feet. Zen like balance. A delight.
critic reviews
Lightly poached pear and white peach gain a welcome bit of brightness from fresh lime, so that an effusively ripe and soothingly creamy Riesling still delivers animation and refreshment. At the same time, there is a sense of lift and delicacy here that goes beyond what was exhibited by this year’s Kabinett, and which perfectly fits the floral perfume that wafts through this wine’s entire performance. A bittersweet hint of cassis and subtle piquancy of fruit pit add counterpoint to the complexly layered, bell-clear finish. The grapes for this came in during the first days of October. Picking under the right conditions for Spätlese was just as challenging this year as picking for Kabinett, opined Schönleber, who admitted to having simply “missed the window” for doing so in the Frühlingsplätzchen. “More and more,” he said, noting the irony, “Spätlese is going to signify anything but ‘late-harvest.’”
The 2018 Halenberg Riesling Spatlese opens with an intensely fruity as well as mineral bouquet of ripe, fully healthy Riesling berries intermixed with floral notes and aromas of crushed stones. The almost-rich impression from the nose is mirrored on the palate, which is generously sweet, lush and salty-piquant. The sugar is still dominating the finish, but there is grip and structure to balance this out in ten or so years. There is no need to drink this vivacious and sustainable Halenberg before 2030. Tasted in August 2019.