Zellerweg am Schwarzen, Herrgott, Grosses Gewächs, 2021

“The Showman” Oliver laughed, and indeed there’s an exuberance here, built around spicy, exotic, dark aromas, huge extract and a dense sense of minerality. The vines here quickly hit dark limestone and the effect on the palate is one of deep, dark structured minerality alongside notes of jasmine, salt and black plum. This is one of theoldest known vineyard sites in Germany, first recognised in the 8th Century. It sits on the Pfalz border with the Donnerberg mountain to the west, from where cool winds often flow."