Barolo, Brunate, Riserva, 2019
Full bodied with layers of dense fruit, the 2017 Riserva is a large-scaled wine which shows the more powerful side of Brunate, with tightly packed stones, forest fruits and salts trying to peak out. Spicy on the finish and intense but not overwhelming, it reflects the warmth and contours of the vintage faithfully. There is lots to unpack and admire here but it will be better after a further five years in the cellar. The Riserva comes from old vines the heart of Brunate, the upper middle part, planted in 1942. Produced in the same way as the other Cru wines – aged for 24 months in 20% new oak barrels - but kept an extra two years in bottle.
critic reviews
Showing a darker color and more natural concentration (next to the 2021 vintage), the M. Marengo 2019 Barolo Riserva Brunate is a wine of incredible depth and potency, yet it remains fine and elegant all the while. It does carry bigger shoulders with dark fruit, damson plum and spice, but it also shows those ethereal tones of crushed limestone and dried mint that are specific to Brunate. It reveals important depth, with a velvety, chalky quality to the tannins. The 2019 is soon edging into its drinking window, but more patience is required. I'd give it another five years in bottle.