Barolo, Bricco Ambrogio, 2018

Enrico Scavino is surely responsible for the great reputation Piedmont has today with holdings in Barolos finest Crus, Cannubi, Bric del Fiasc and Rocche dell’Annuziata. Through meticulous vineyard work, fermentations and finishing in a mixture of French oak barriques and the larger traditional ‘Botti’ casks, Enrico makes svelte wines whose polish and sophistication enhance rather than shroud their character and typicity. He works with daughters Elisa and Enrica who are now the fourth generation of this family estate, established in 1921.

Paolo Scavino has turned out some beautifully fragrant, elegant, and seductive 2018s that are instantly likeable; in the words of Elisa Scavino, "they are light, bright, aromatic, and soft; they remind me a little of vintages like 2012, 2011, and 2005." Pure pleasure wines that will gratify Nebbiolo lovers for 10-20 years.

Success was not easy, though. Spring and early Summer were wet, and fighting against disease pressure in the vineyards was hard going. Hot weather arrived in July and lasted until early harvest, then the rain came back, and the Scavinos stopped picking until the vines dried, and the rest of the fruit finished ripening. Picking had eventually finished by the 20th of October; it was a long harvest that resulted in wines of silky ripe tannins and red fruit profiles. Selections and green harvests meant a crop reduction of 30%; to make matters worse, a moth attack in Serralunga meant that no Prapo was made.

A vineyard close to the Scavinos’ hearts, they bought into the relatively unknown Bricco Ambrogio in 2002 and have expanded their holdings from five hectares to seven hectares. The top cru of the lesser-known commune of Roddi, a very windy terroir exposed southeast and planted at 150 metres above sea level