Fonseca, Vintage Port, 2024

Fonseca is known for being hedonistic, lavish and rich. It always ages slowly and beautifully, often appearing far younger than its vintage, as the 1985 currently attests to. It is drawn from two quintas in Pinhao and their most famous and strikingly beautiful quinta in Tavora, Quinta do Panascal. While both Fonseca and Taylor’s are made by David Guimaraens, one can see the contrast between the two and why they work so well as a pair. This is every bit as good as Taylor’s, just stylistically more bombastic, extroverted and heady. It starts coiled and slightly backwards but soon expounds with velvety blackcurrant, cherry, cassis, violets, eucalyptus and mint. On the palate you start to see the Fonseca opulence you want and expect. Slatey and mineral on the finish with scrub, brambles, wild herbs, pepper and a big whack of dark chocolate. This is wonderful.