Nacional, Vintage Port, 2024

Nacional needs little introduction. The tiny population of un-grafted vines at Noval, which were replanted in 1924 go into making this singularly spectacular wine. At a low yielding 1.34ha in size, it accounts for just 0.65% of the production at Noval, culminating in a grand total of just 170 cases (hence the price). It is picked in a single day. The grapes are 100% foot trodden, and the wine is fermented down to 108g/l residual sweetness. Without besmirching Noval, this is a huge step up, as you would hope and expect. It has a lovely fluidity and is beautifully svelte in texture. Sweet blackberry, blueberry and herbs dominate the opening gambit, but plum and cherry are ever present. There are waves of power, minerality and acidity, the complexity is immense. The tannins are beautifully chiselled and are buffeted by dark chocolate, liquorice and baking spices on the endless finish.