Compared to Bearwallow this is decidedly paler in both colour and the shade of aromas that emerge from the glass. Wild strawberry, mountain herb and orange peel notes, a complex stoniness, oyster shell, pine resin and fine smoke - this is complex, savoury and delicious. On the palate, fine supple fruit notes meet layers of minerality, tea and herbs, crushed stones and wild woodland berries. Savoury and beguiling yet also ethereal and lifted; wild red fruits with mountain and maritime nuance, - another beautifully balanced intensely mineral Horseshoe Pinot that fans out across the palate, weightless yet persistent. It’s a delight now but probably deserves a couple of years to be at its very best.
Kevin Harvey’s Rhys Vineyards has built up a near cult like following in just a decade of releases. His bottlings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah from both the Santa Cruz Mountains and now also the Anderson Valley in Mendocino are rightly seen as amongst the very top echelon of wines produced anywhere in the United States.
Everything about these wines speaks of attention to detail and a deep commitment to making great wine. From purchasing uncoopered staves of the finest French oak a full four years prior to cooperage, to the vast underground purpose built winemaking cellar, no detail is left to chance. In the often steep vineyards, vine density is extremely high and as a result farming is entirely manual and very labour intensive. In the winery, vinification is carried out at a micro-level in tiny 4ft square vats: fermentations are native and everything is gravity-fed without pumping, fining or filtration. In essence, the wines are given kid gloves treatment, and then aged in almost neutral French barrels, so better to promote the site specific characters of the vineyards in the portfolio.
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