Burgundy 2023’s Five Star Wines

We’re big fans of Jasper Morris’ Five Star rating system. While scores alone can often seem a little arbitrary, generally ascending the scale of a producer’s wines in an orderly fashion, Jasper’s “Five Stars” highlights the over performers amongst their peer group. As such they provide a great steer to the best value and quality from Burgundy, whatever your budget.

2023, Meursault Perrières 1er Cru, Château de Meursault

A gleaming primrose colour. All about the weight more than the class on the nose., All about the class on the palate, where it really kicks off, heading to the stars. You feel that there are many layers waiting to unfold, very gorgeous. Wonderful finish, the stones adding pinpoint precision to the weight of orchard fruit. Five Stars

2023, Pommard Clos de la Commaraine 1er Cru, Domaine de la Commaraine

We tasted several component parts, as the blend is only assembled a month before bottling. However, I could sample a trial blend. A rich and even purple. The bouquet is impressive, with the extra structure of Pommard but obviously containing a wealth of fruit. The iron comes through in a minor note. This is dark but not black fruit. We have a long-term keeper here, there is so much to t and the structure has been perfectly judged, the plentiful tannins are very fine, the acidity adds its own useful touch while the fruit continues in serene fashion. Five Stars

2023 Gevrey Chambertin, Clos du Fontenay, 1er Cru, Bruno Clair

Beautiful colour here, a darker crimson, and the fruit is magical. Perfectly on the red and black cusp while the whole bunches add a floral note. The Clos du Fonteny is on terrific form today with a fine balance of acidity to finish, alongside balanced tannins. A fine long aftertaste. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Nov 2024. Five Stars

2023, Nuits-St-Georges Les St-Georges 1er Cru, Domaine Henri Gouges

Still a fair length of barrel elevage to come. Dense crimson colour, plenty of oak but a massive fruit weight to match. So different from Vaucrains, vastly more depth and energy though I still crave for the finesse of Vaucrains. This is more evidently immediately satisfying, and has the classic heart of this part of the Côte. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted Nov 2024. Five Stars

2023, Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru, Marquis d'Angerville

Bright mid purple. Immediate distinction and discretion, impeccably balanced. Alpine strawberry, finesse with intensity, picked at impeccable ripeness, the last red to be picked, on 9th September, but it has held out thanks to underground springs. Everything exactly where anybody would want it and stays in the mouth for so long. Drink from 2033-2045. Tasted Nov 2024. Five Stars

2023, Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru, Domaine de Montille

100% whole cluster but shaped very differently. This is a much richer wine and the fruit swamps the stems. Generous cherry and raspberry, effortless balance, a beautiful bottle of Volnay in the making. The flavours come back in waves. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024. Five Stars