Gorgeous white Burgundy for spring, across all levels

24 March 2024

Three different producers, three different vintages & three different appellations

With its rich, layered core, the best white Burgundy represents the apex of fine, nuanced Chardonnay. But which are the wines to drink now, and how do their characteristics compare? In an inviting triumvirate of wines, we throw a spotlight on a trio of appellations and vintages via three singular estates, each delivering right-off-the-bat drinking.

The attributes of our trio of ACs are showcased by three leading architects of white Burgundy, names that we’re delighted to have in the Justerinis stable. The relatively high altitude of Remi Rollin’s vineyards means its wines carry an inherent freshness – and while Pernand Vergelesses may not be one of Burgundy’s headline acts, this is an appellation that is a regular go-to for great value (it is, after all, a commune that is home to grands crus: Corton and Corton-Charlemagne.)

By comparison, the wines of Chassagne-Montrachet tend to harness more richness, along with a minerally yet succulent core, often with hints of hazelnuts. Caroline Lestimé, daughter of Jean Noël Gagnard, has had her hand on the tiller at her father’s Chassagne estate since the mid-90s. Certified organic in 2014, it delivers thrilling yet gently crafted wines.

Meursault is richer still, and we complete the collection with a pair from a domaine which could stand as a benchmark case of revival. Over the course of the last decade, Château de Meursault’s wines have reached new heights, fully befitting the history and splendour of this majestic property. Nervy, driven and ever-so refreshing, this is archetypal Perrières, and simply sublime Meursault.

In terms of the vintages, the notorious, frost-ridden 2021 was described by Julian Campbell, our Senior Buyer, as “a vintage full of jewel-like wines from a growing season that was far from plain sailing”. The only downside, of course, is that there’s so little to go around, the devastating spring freeze having resulted in some of the smallest crops on record.

The 2020 white Burgundy vintage garnered a 9/10 rating from our team, and is a year where Chardonnay stood front and centre: “2020 surely deserves its place among the great white vintages of the past two decades,” concluded Buying Director Giles Burke-Gaffney. The 2019 whites were also widely lauded, not least for their immediate generosity – and it is that drinkability that we tap into here…

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