Château Calon Ségur, 3ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe, 2018

Laurent Dufau, Vincent Millet and Eric Boissenot produce one of the most sought-after wines in the Medoc. Laurent has undertaken a huge replanting project to both improve the density of plantings and increase the share of Cabernet Sauvignon in the vineyard. The blend for the 2018 is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon with 17% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Some purists still lament the change in style, however, the new Calon is receiving rave reviews from critics and collectors. The grapes were cooled down before going into tank to retain freshness and quality of fruit. Then followed a reduced 20-day cuvaison; the team here felt that gentle extractions were required with 2018. There's a wonderful Cabernet perfume with notes of griotte, fragrant cassis and stones. This is lovely and bright - density without being heavy or cumbersome. Lots of sweet cherry and fine herbs. As with all recent Calon Segurs, this is quite technical, perhaps not as natural as the old style, but it is mighty impressive and what it lacks in old Calon charm it more than makes up for with additional concentration and more sophisticated tannins. This is really refined with super smart fruit laced over the detailed tannins. A wonderful, modern example of Calon Segur.