Les Pagodes de Cos, St Estèphe, 2022

This white from the team at Cos d’Estournel, from vineyards further north on the Médoc, is a blend of 74% Sauvignon Blanc and 36% Semillon, picked from August 29th, and bottled in September 2023. Aromatically it opens with powdered chalk, lemon peel and chamomile. The palate shows a fine sense of harmony, with a supple core of citrus and pear fruits, dusted with chalk and white pepper elements, supported by a firm phenolic grip and a modest but tangible acidity. Plenty of pithy grip in the finish with that acid profile suggests this could develop with age, but experience tells me that it may be better drunk young rather than older. The alcohol is 13.14%, with 13% on the label.

DRINKING WINDOW 2026 - 2042

date of review 06/2025

Inky colour and high spice, turmeric, cloves, white pepper, blueberry, easy to enjoy with great balance provided by bitter rosemary and fennel. Harvest September 7 to 23. Earliest since 1989. 20% new oak for ageing 3.79ph. Dominique Arangoïts technical director, Eric Boissenot consultant.

DRINKING WINDOW 2026 - 2040

date of review 03/2025

The 2022 Les Pagodes de Cos has impressive purity and lift on the nose, with hints of black cherry, violet and peony—aromatics that you might describe as "sleek." The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. It's as fine-boned as it seemed in barrel but perhaps just a little more powdery in texture on the finish than I remember. Fine.

DRINKING WINDOW 2027 - 2045

date of review 02/2025