Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux, Margaux, 2020

Aurélien Vallance explained that “The wet warm spring brought significant mildew pressure, but the Margaux team was able to fight it using exclusively organic products. Flowering was early and even (10-15 days in advance of the norm), but we noted that the bunches had less grapes than normal. Summer was exceptionally dry. Margaux experienced 50 consecutive days without a drop of rain. Luckily there was enough water in the soil to supply the vines until a huge storm on the 12th August unleashed 80 mm of rain. We were concerned it might be too much, but the berries didn’t swell. There was just one additional day of rain with 20 mm, then sunny and dry conditions returned. Harvest was early, conducted between the 10th and 30th September. The berries were very tannic and we had to be very careful with extractions, it was the smallest and most controlled extraction we’ve ever done at Margaux. This gentle approach with no pumping over resulted in very ripe, velvety tannins, wonderful freshness to the fruit and relatively low alcohols.” Pavillon Rouge represents 31% of the production. Aurélien noted a “great homogeneity” in the fruit, which allowed a greater proportion of fruit into the blend. This leaps out of the glass with a wonderful fragrance of sandalwood, mulberry, violets and potpourri. There’s a glorious attack of dark cherries, liquorice and spices; refined, long and detailed with a slight creaminess, but not as noticeable as the 2019, this is more strict and classical, vibrant, so light footed for such a concentrated wine it develops and unfurls to reveal a wonderful finish. To our surprise, this is analytically more tannic than the 2010, yet you hardly notice them – they’re harmonious, ripe and integrated. Exquisite, and closer to the Grand Vin style than ever. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 13.6% alcohol.