critic reviews
We have been spoiled with the 1989s this week, and here again at Château Margaux you see that this vintage is in full bloom, ready to be enjoyed. This was the earliest harvest since 1893 at the property, and remains stunning, structured, red roses and pomegranates, cumin, woodsmoke, cold ash, graphite, mint, so drinkable, so shareable, clearly the wine that I finished the quickest of all the glasses on the table.Paul Pontallier technical director, about to be promoted to managing director in 1990 on the retirement of Philippe Barré. Emile Peynaud still consultant for this vintage, and the estate was already using 100% new oak for ageing.
The 1989 Château Margaux is old school on the nose with dark berry fruit, saddle leather, iodine and a touch of wild mint. It's much more loose-knit than the 1990, which I personally prefer. The palate is well balanced with a sweet entry, not amazingly complex yet refined and delicate in the style of, say, Lafite-Rothschild. It gently builds toward a very harmonious but not robust tobacco-tinged finish. Drinking perfectly now - this will not get better. Tasted at the château.