Château Rauzan Ségla, 2ème Cru Classé, Margaux, 2018

Nicolas Audebert's title for 2018 is the 'Grand Huit', a clever play on words wasted on us… 'Grand Huit' is a rollercoaster, which aptly describes the growing season and the emotional state of most vignerons. It also describes the vintage in its most basic terms, Grand. These are big wines, with big concentration and structures, but Rauzan, like all the greatest 2018s is so much more than that. This is beautifully judged, effortless and very seductive. The Rauzan team has been using co-inoculation since 2016. The discovery of new bacteria that can be added at the same time as yeast (for the alcoholic fermentations) is seen as another big advance in winemaking. It allows winemakers to conduct alcoholic and malolactic fermentations simultaneously. It certainly seems to be working here - this is perhaps the most impressive young Rauzan Segla we can recall tasting. This is indeed a grand vin with huge concentration and power, yet it remains beautifully fragrant and classically Margaux. Initially a floral perfume greets the senses. Notes of griotte, strawberry, violets, geraniums, incense and tobacco emerge from the glass. The palate is sumptuous, creamy and relaxed. Yes, there is huge power here, but all the flavours are allowed space to play and delight. Dark cherry, sweet cassis, fine herbs and cocoa nibs flow over the palate. This is impressive and deep yet detailed and ethereal. This is pitch perfect - there's a flashy modernity to the fruit and incredible precision, but it isn't overworked, it feels authentic and real. It may not have the complexity or the enormous tannic profile of some of the most profound wines of the vintage, but it is definitely up there with the most delicious. A sumptuous, truly outstanding Rauzan Segla. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc.