Alter Ego de Château Palmer, Margaux, 2021
We don't always love Alter Ego, but credit where it's due, their 2021s is absolutely outstanding. Alas, they lost 9 hectares (of mainly Merlot) to frost, but learnings from recent vintages meant they lost little to mildew and maintained their biodynamic status. Made from an unusually high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) with the balance 32% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot; this is clearly a very successful and attractive Alter Ego. There's a nice definition to the nose. Indications of dark, ripe fruits and mineral elements. One gets the sensation of opaque, yet bright and crisp Merlot fruit wrapped in serious Cabernet tannins. More black fruited than anything else in the Margaux appellation, with red fruit and raspberry highlights. Lots of tension and definition here, vivid and lively, with an alluring sapidity. Very handsome and complete.
critic reviews
The 2021 Alter Ego has a deep purple-black color. It springs from the glass with zippy scents of Bing cherries, juicy raspberries, and redcurrants, leading to wafts of lavender and bay leaves. The light to medium-bodied palate is elegant and refreshing, with crunchy red fruit, finishing with a skip in its step.
This has a juicy delicate structure, leaning in to the Margaux character, floral and fragrant, with intensity and balanced minerality. Savoury and sappy, blueberries, mirabelle plum and grilled cassis, and waves of gunsmoke. Higher Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than usual, giving it more of a classical, less exuberant character than in many vintages. 25% new oak.
The 2021 Alter Ego, which contains slightly more Cabernet than usual and was bottled in late July, has manifested a little more composure on the nose since tasting it from barrel: black fruit, touches of melted tar and that background scent of shucked oyster shell. The palate is medium-bodied with a juicy opening, yet there is backbone and a mineral-driven finish behind this Alter Ego. Impressive in terms of persistence, don't be afraid to tuck this away in your cellar for three or four years.
Bursting with aromas of blackberries, mint, violets and pencil shavings, the 2021 Alter Ego de Palmer is medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with impressive density and ripeness for the vintage, its deep core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannin. Like the grand vin, it's a very strong effort this year.