
La Côte aux Enfants, Ay, Blanc de Noirs, 2015
Incredibly rich red berry fruit - cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry. Bruised apple, orange blossom and some tropical mango and papaya notes. Brambles, lemon thyme and lashings of vanilla and cream. A delicate persistent umami backbone exhibits sea salt, oyster shell, limestone and proving bread dough. This showcases such impressive weight and intensity beautifully overlaid by acidity, tension and freshness.
critic reviews
Bollingers 2015 Blanc de Noirs La Cote aux Enfants, disgorged in February 2025 with a dosage of four grams per liter, stands as the most harmonious iteration to datea conclusion reaffirmed during a retrospective tasting that included every vintage produced from the vineyards northwest-facing slope, which boasts a steep 39% gradient and shallow soils that have been cultivated according to organic practices since 2009. Harvested at 11.2% potential alcohol, with meticulous selection to exclude herbaceous elementsa refinement made possible through vinification in small barrels rather than large tanksthe wine opens with a flamboyant bouquet evocative of red grapefruit zest, pear, red plum, mango and pastry notes. On the palate, it is full-bodied and concentrated, with a vibrant core of fruit supported by racy acidity and ample chalky extract. The finish is long, saline and resonant, marked by Pinot Noir phenolics that just amplify its mineral signature. Denis Bunner notes that sugar accumulation occurred rapidly in this vintage, outpacing aromatic development, yet the decision to delay harvest proved fortuitousand I wholeheartedly concur. This is an extroverted, characterful expression that aligns beautifully with Bollingers house style, and while it can be drunk with considerable satisfaction in the near term, it promises a broad window of enjoyment.
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