Clos des Goisses, Brut, 2010

The remarkable, but diminutive 2010. A draconian selection process resulted in one of the smallest yields in memory. The five hectares that make up Clos des Goisses have produced a mere 5000 bottles of this bold and luxurious cuvee. To put that in context, this is just a quarter of a normal crop. Faced with the possibility of over ripeness the Philipponnat team intentionally selected their leanest, most vibrant plots for the 2010, and in doing so have succeeded in maintaining beautiful freshness in a vintage that might otherwise have leant too far towards texture, richness and opulence. It was a brave decision that carries with it a dash of regret. “Having now seen the quality of our 2010 I realise we could have produced more!” Charles Philipponnat lamented. Stylistically it speaks more of the Cote d’Or than Chablis, with ripe fruit alongside notes of buttered toast, smoke and vanilla. It is a Pinot Noir dominated cuvee, at 71%, which paradoxically enhances the richly golden Cote d’Or analogy. Charles’ suggestion of pairing it alongside a Grand Cru from the Puligny/Chassagne appellations has all the makings of a highly enjoyable experiment. Those lucky enough to buy a case or two will be able to approach it relatively early, though of course those holding on will eventually be in possession of one of the rarer Clos des Goisses on the market.