Les Cintres, 2009

Philipponnat’s iconic single plot cuvee Les Cintres, which hails from the steepest centrally located section of Clos des Goisses, is a 100% Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs raised exclusively in French oak barrels averaging 3 years old. Here the power and stature of Goisses is taken to its most extreme limits, with exceptional levels of ripeness, intensity and sheer mouth coating concentration. The entire Philipponnat ethos of bold ripe fruit set in clear deft structures, without oxidation, complexity sought through soil and ripe fruit, is writ large here, as exotic yellow fruits melt into deep chalk notes, stone fruit, touches of coffee, barley, Alphonso mango, licorice, herbs and then golden fruit again. There’s huge layering and a texture which, propelled by a very fine mousse, is utterly seductive, and completely unique. The maison tend to serve this in burgundy glasses and it makes sense. A luxurious and powerful Champagne of immense proportions. One for the table. Just 2461 bottles produced.