Barolo, Margheria, 2017
A little reductive and taciturn at first, it takes a while to open up but gradually reveals dense, dark velvety fruit with a strong savoury minerality at its core – offering notes of dry stones and chalk mixed with spicier overtones of liquorice and anise. Smooth, brooding, rich but savoury. From a prime south and south west facing 55-year-old plot in the Serralunga d'Alba commune planted on white clay and limestone soils. Azelia’s vines sit alongside those used for Gaja’s Sperss. Aged in the traditional way, for 28 months in large slavonian oak botti.
critic reviews
The most structured and tannic of these new releases from Azelia is the 2017 Barolo Margheria. The tannins are quite present, meaning that you are required to afford generous aging time to this Barolo from Serralunga d'Alba, hoping that the fruit intensity will run the course. At this young stage, the wine shows blackberry and plum, with licorice, rusty nail and some crushed stone or terracotta clay. The wine's mineral signature is strong and elegant. In appearance, it reveals a lean and bright ruby color, and the power and natural richness of the mouthfeel come as a welcome surprise. This was a release of about 5,900 bottles.
The 2017 Barolo Margheria is gorgeous. Open, perfumed aromatics are immediately alluring. On the palate, the 2017 is a dark, mysterious wine, with layers of flavor that continue to develop over time. Dark cherry, blood orange, spice, leather, iron and scorched earth add striking layers of nuance. The tannins are potent - we are in Serralunga after all - but the 2017 has so much to offer. It's a gorgeous Barolo to enjoy over the next two decades, maybe more.
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