Barolo, Riserva, Monvigliero, 2017

“2017 was a fuller-bodied, warmer vintage but over the past 15 years we have understood how to approach these years. It’s not just picking earlier but working through the growing season to slow down the ripening. We let a bigger crop hang and give the grapes more shade from the leaves.” Smooth glossy fruits, red and black, with touches of almond, Campari and citrus. Not a jammy wine, there is a fine, lacy acidity and precision allied to enthusiastic fruit. “When I label a wine Riserva the grapes come from a more specific, powerful plot, so they need more time before we release. In my view, a Riserva has to have serious potential – it is not just more oak or more body.” The 2017 was bottled after two years as the tannins were already pliant and of very high quality. The extra time in bottle has allowed the fruit to slim down and the wine to develop more aromatic nuance. A great Grand Cru.