
critic reviews
The name of this Bibi Graetz Testamatta 2020 means ‘crazy head’, perhaps referring to Bibi’s passionate pursuit of old vine Sangiovese. This wine is a clear, transparent, ruby color and has a very appealing nose of delicate, pure, red fruits like red cherry and wild strawberries wrapped in spice and light salty notes from sea breezes. The nose is charming and alluring. On the palate it is very Burgundy-like in weight and texture with a fine silkiness to the texture but it has very Sangiovese-like tannins. The wine is round and silky with a juicy freshness and fine but firm, savory tannins that linger with bitter cherry and sea salt flavors to the finish. A graceful and characterful version of Sangiovese.
Gloriously jewel-like in colour, understated joyful frame flowing with juicy black cherry, raspberry, mandarin peel, fresh acidities and bounce. Everything feels in high definition, continuing the evolution of Testamatta from its earliest years. Softly brushed tannins that are barely there, extremely easy to recommend, you are going to want to share this wine. Harvest September 24 to October 25, taking things slowly. From a range of plots set at 400m to 600m altitude across Tuscany, with vines that head up to 80 years old. Natural yeasts, manual punch downs, 10 days maceration and barrel ageing with no new oak.
Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch.
product details
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