Amancio, Rioja, 2010

Much like San Vicente, Amancio 2010 looks set to go down as ‘historic’. Named after the first Eguren to grow grapes, it comes from a stunning vineyard called La Veguilla situated, like all Sierra Cantrabria vineyards, on the left bank of the Ebro. Only the few vines which naturally produce two bunches of grapes are included in the blend. Enormous amounts of labour go into this wine including a full berry by berry hand de-stemming, taking 70 people three full days to produce a little over 4000kg of grapes. It is fermented in small oak vats, with no machines or pumps employed, only gravity used for remontage, before spending 22 months in new French oak barriques. The nose is very fine indeed, littered with white flowers, tiny red and black berry fruit and mountain herbs. On the palate this is another level of finesse, as sweet mineral notes are interwoven between fine berry fruit, dancing spices and a gentle note of very fine chocolate. Hugely complex and almost indelible while at the same time completely effortless. Spellbinding.