
Petrus, Pomerol, 2017
There aren't many 2017s that can compete on a level playing field with their 2016 counterparts. Perhaps Petrus is one. Olivier Berrouet has done a tremendous job. This was for many the wine of the vintage; it certainly makes a compelling case for the title. As soon as you immerse yourself in the glass you are transported by the ravishing bouquet. It is a quite unique experience that is unmistakably Petrus. This extraordinary terroir situated on blue clay is at its hedonistic best in 2017. It has produced a wine of immense stature and striking beauty with consummate ease. Produced from 100% Merlot from yields of 33hl/ha; there was a little coulure at the end of June, but otherwise the growing season was relatively easy. As always, macerations were gentle lasting 21 days, with no pumping over. Olivier explained that the key is to stop the macerations before any unwanted flavours are extracted. This is as noble as it gets. Initially one is intoxicated by the most beautiful perfume of pure damsons, tobacco leaf, roses, Provencal herbs, spiced red fruits - it is so complex and engaging. On the palate there are lavish sweet fruits, crème de mûre, strawberries and touches of spice. Layer after layer emerges; this is a veritable melting pot of ripe, seductive fruit. Although profound, even regal, this has such a sense of ease and composure. It feels effortless - as elegant and assured as it gets with the most wonderfully vibrant and complete saline finish. A true tour de force!
critic reviews
The 2017 Pétrus, as usual, is a wine that bides its time and I left my glass for five minutes before broaching. Bottled at the beginning of August 2019 it gradually unfurls with a mixture of red and black fruit, those pressed irises that I remarked upon out of barrel, now a hint of steaming espresso in the background. The palate is very smooth and quite plush on the entry. It has a frame of very pliant tannins, notes of mulberry mixed with black truffle and white pepper. This is a gentle and self-effacing, nonchalant Pétrus, not a headline grabber like the succeeding vintage, rather a Pétrus that just wants to be consumed. It deserves four or five years in bottle to manifest more secondary notes, and it will go on to give 25-30 years of drinking pleasure, taking account of its unerring longevity.
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