Petrus, Pomerol, 2014
The 2014 Petrus is an outstanding wine, which is close in quality to the profound 2012. The 2012 at this stage would have the edge in terms of power and density, but the 2014 ranks as one of the most gentile and aristocratic wines we tasted this vintage. Produced from 100% Merlot on the exceptional and almost unique blue clay soils, this exudes class and nobility. There is a glorious yet understated intensity, vivid high-toned fruit, and earthy complexity, with notes of mulberries and decadent cherries; this is so polished with such a silky texture and fine grained tannins one almost misses them altogether. Texturally suave, profoundly complex, beautifully perfumed and with impeccable balance - this is a tour de force - a bringing together of exceptional terroir and understanding wine-making. A staggeringly beautiful Petrus.
critic reviews
The 2014 Petrus has a slightly more extroverted bouquet compared directly with Lafleur. Crushed strawberry mixes with cranberry, orange rind and light cedar scents. With aeration, there are hints of dark chocolate and wild fennel. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very cohesive and fresh. I feel that this Petrus has tightened up in recent months, which is a positive feature, as I was concerned that it might be advancing too quickly. As such, the finish has more brightness, tension and backbone. Excellent. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting.
The 2014 Petrus is deep garnet-brick in color. Notes of dusty soil and rusty nails open out to a core of raisin cake, new leather, and cigar box with a lifted touch of kirsch. The medium to full-bodied palate is savory and mineral, with plenty of mid-palate flesh and velvety tannins, finishing minerally.
Smoky, grilled depths of black cherry, damson, raspberry, fleshy yet reserved, stands out among the Pomerols for its subtle complexity, still plenty of give in those tannins, still a ton to reveal, revelling in its layers, grip and length, at once intense and concentrated and yet caressing in its tannic structure. A beautiful Petrus that shows why this wine can excel even in vintages that are more challenging for the appellation as a whole, but I would suggest holding on to it for a few more years yet. 50% new oak. Oliver Berrouet winemaker.
The 2014 Petrus was tasted on the same morning as the 2014 Vieux-Chateau-Certan and though they are built from different blends, their personalities are quite similar. This is a succinct, not powerful, much more refined and discrete bouquet, gradually unfurling and revealing a subtle sea spray/marine element. The palate is again quite discrete at first and unfolds at a glacial pace. It is beautifully balanced with fine tannin, quite linear and structured, gently building towards a finish that has wonderful salinity (continuing that marine theme). Note: I actually returned to taste this several hours later, because it was so closed earlier on and it did finally open, which is atypical for this Pomerol. It is a wonderful Petrus, but one that will deserve bottle age and decanting.