Petrus, Pomerol,

Smoky, grilled depths of black cherry, damson, raspberry, fleshy yet reserved, stands out among the Pomerols for its subtle complexity, still plenty of give in those tannins, still a ton to reveal, revelling in its layers, grip and length, at once intense and concentrated and yet caressing in its tannic structure. A beautiful Petrus that shows why this wine can excel even in vintages that are more challenging for the appellation as a whole, but I would suggest holding on to it for a few more years yet. 50% new oak. Oliver Berrouet winemaker.

The 2014 Petrus has a bouquet that storms from the glass with exotic red cherries, blood orange, strawberry tart and cedar scents, only calming down after several minutes. Rich and opulent – although they are not facets of a truly great Petrus to me. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet core of candied red fruit, fine structure, a 2014 that is letting it all hang out so soon after bottling, which causes me some concern in terms of what it has left in reserve for long-term ageing and evolution. It just does not deliver a knockout blow on the slightly brittle finish, completing a very good Pomerol but in my opinion, it is not the greatest Petrus in recent years. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.