Château Branaire Ducru, 4ème Cru Classé, St Julien, 2017

Patrick Maroteaux, the charming owner of Branaire Ducru has transformed the fortunes of this Chateau since his family bought it in 1988. His wines are rarely flashy and don't often impress from barrel, but after elevage and a few years in bottle, they often develop into glorious, understated St Juliens. The 2014 shows crisp red berry fruit with plum, Cassis and a floral lilt. There is lovely garrigue and dried herbs, minerality and fallen leaves too, piqued by a delicate olive brine and black pepper.