Château Léoville Las Cases, 2ème Cru Classé, St Julien,

A year that can get overlooked on the Left Bank compared to the (majestic at this property) 1986, but I would strongly suggest not forgetting about the 1995 Las Cases. No Petit Verdot, unusual at the time and making it more reflective of modern blends, stong salinity, with waves of oyster shell and white truffles that head towards dried roses, finely boned tannins, campfire, soot, undergrowth, blackberry, and a shot of mandarin juice that injects a shot of freshness and youth. At this stage it isn't loudly proclaiming its brilliance, just gently reminding you that this is a wine built to last, with a shot of electricity running through it. 50% new oak. Michel Delon owner.

Deep ruby-red. Deep, lively aromas of red- and blackcurrants, licorice, tobacco and grilled nuts. Great sweetness and silky texture in the mouth currently overshadows the wine strong supporting acidity and tight core of spice and minerals. The toothcoating tannins don't cover as much of the mouth as those of the '96 do, but this wine offers uncanny length.