Château Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Margaux, 2006
The 2006 Margaux is a remarkable example in a number of ways, both in its fidelity to the course held by Paul Pontallier since his arrival at the estate almost 30 years ago, as well as in the distinguishing features that set it apart from every other wine he has made here. To begin with it contains an astonishing 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance of Merlot, and this gives the wine a more masculine character than normal. Analytically however, the 2006 varies little from great, Merlot-enriched vintages such as 2000 and 1996, with acidity, alcohol and IPT all falling comfortably within Pontallier’s chosen parameters. And in its character, this is a true Château Margaux, with purity, complexity, suppleness, layered depth and great charm. There are cool blackcurrants and wild damsons, blueberries and sloes, cedar, tobacco and vanilla; mouth-puckering freshness, fine minerals and elegant tannins. The extra structure that comes from the high Cabernet content is well accommodated by ripe fruit, which is opulent and plentiful. Only 36% of the crop will be designated Grand Vin.
critic reviews
The 2006 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years – indeed, my last note for it on Vinous was back in 2008. This was cropped at 49 hl/ha. At 20 years old, this is fully mature on the nose with fine delineation. Like the Pavillon Rouge, it displays a subtle ferrous element and none of the medicinal scents that mark many of its peers in this vintage. Hints of potpourri and sage emerge with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, more red than black fruit and a light sprinkling of black pepper towards the savoury, off-dry finish. This vintage is probably overlooked in favour of the 2005 and 2009 (for example), but it is drinking beautifully now. Tasted at the château.
2006 was the first vintage Chateau Margaux had 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and so little Merlot, only 4%, together with 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Only the Merlot from the plot in front of the church, which was planted in 1953 on gravel, had the structure to stand up to the Cabernet Sauvignon this year. It has a deep garnet color, with a touch of brick and it struts out of the glass with mature notes of cigar box, new leather, and sandalwood, over a core of redcurrant jelly, prunes, and fruitcake, with wafts of iron ore and dusty soil. The medium-bodied palate delivers red berry preserves and ferrous/mineral layers, supported by firm, chewy tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and lifted. There's a distinct salinity to the finish that keeps you wanting more.