Château Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Margaux, 2010
Paul Pontallier refers to the genius of the Cabernet plots at Margaux in 2010. When other estates are experiencing record alcohol levels, Chateau Margaux weighs in at a very dainty 13.5%. When asked how they did it, Paul shrugs a very French shrug and says, we didn't do anything, this is the magic of Cabernet Sauvignon on these soils. Produced from 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 1.5% Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The impressive vintage book appositely refers to the 2010 Margaux as classic, with a twist. That it is. Wonderfully vibrant colour, beautifully fragrant, fabulous intensity, true to its terroir, layers of complexity, muscled, aristocratic, effortless, reserved; this wine has it all. The nose is a freshly cut bouquet of flowers, minerals, wild strawberries and grilled toast. On the palate the fruit is exquisitely poised, precise, vibrant, creamy, packed with blueberries, cherry liqueur and sweet summer berries. One can almost taste the terroir, the gravelly minerality is so evident on the palate. Dense, yet light footed, there is a weightless freshness and class to this. A regal, tight knit beauty. Splendid.
critic reviews
A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 1.5% Cabernet Franc, and 1.5% Petit Verdot, the 2010 Chateau Margaux is deep garnet in color. It needs a shake or two before it erupts from the glass with powerful notes of crème de cassis, baked plums, and licorice, followed by sparks of redcurrants, mocha, black olives, and tar, plus a fragrant waft of jasmine tea. The medium-bodied palate maintains its elegance and grace with a refreshing backbone and firm, yet fine-grained, tannins supporting the generous fruit, finishing with an array of beguiling spice, floral, and fragrant earth nuances. A masterpiece!
The 2010 Château Margaux continues to deliver the goods, but like the 2005, it is a wine that demands patience. Backward on the nose, this vintage offers black fruit, crushed violet petals and mint, graphite and cedar joining the chorus line. This bouquet is only in its first chapter. The palate is one of the most structured in recent years, gripping the mouth like a Latour, the tannins perhaps having firmed up a bit in the last couple of years. But this has a crucial line of acidity that counterbalances the payload of fruit concentration with a bravura finish that is like a brass section going full pelt. Wonderful. Tasted at the château.
The remarkable thing about the tannins of this 2010 Château Margaux is that they feel more plush and velvety than the 2nd wine at this stage - almost more ready to drink. A brilliant wine, dense yet light on its feet, aromatic and seductive, soft leather, cedar, sandalwood, Christmas spice and blackberry notes, with violet notes and a gunsmoke curl. Margaux du Château Margaux was in its second vintage at this point, and by adding this 3rd wine, they tightened up selection across the board even further, with 38% of grapes making their way to the 1st wine. 100% new oak. Paul Pontallier director.