Château Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Margaux, 2014
Paul Pontallier explained that selections are stricter than ever now they have a third label. The grand vin will account for just 36% of the crop. This is initially quite reserved; after aeration a classically styled bouquet of potpourri, lilacs, gravel and beautifully pure and seductive crème de cassis emerge. The palate is as seductive and floral and the nose suggests with wonderfully clear cassis and wild bramble flavours interspersed with a touch of coal dust and stony minerality. This is definitely not a fruit bomb; it is classically perfumed with a hint of musk and incense and bound together with intense yet supple fruit. As one would expect from this noble terroir, there is something rather ethereal and wonderful. There is a silkiness and ripeness to the tannins; this has real structure and the presence, harmony and balance to age for many decades. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot.
critic reviews
The 2014 Chateau Margaux is deep garnet-brick in color. Scents of warm cassis, black cherries, and dried mulberries pop from the glass, with hints of iron ore and forest floor plus a waft of candied violets. The medium-bodied palate is vibrant and energetic, with compelling mineral accents and super-ripe, fine-grained tannins, finishing long and fragrant. This is beautiful!
Sit back, and drink in the finessed tannins and floral aromatics that are so associated with Château Margaux, and that are fully on display in this elegant, refined wine. Still young, with soft roasted blackberry and bilberry fruits that sit alongside crushed mint, cigar and liqourice root. The savoury edge of Cabernet Sauvignon is dominant in terms of character, and this will benefit from a few more years of ageing. The bottle supplied during the Bordeaux Index tasting was corked, so I Coravined one that I have at home. I particularly wanted to include it as this was one of Paul Pontallier's last vintages. 36% of overall production in the 1st wine. 100% new oak.
The 2014 Château Margaux, has a fragrant bouquet with blackberry, graphite and light violet aromas. This feels very refined, very Margaux as banal as that sounds. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite precise tannin. This is an unreservedly understated First Growth, more masculine then I remember from barrel and just after bottling, firming up a little for the long-haul. In some ways, the higher Cabernet Sauvignon renders this a little more Pauillac-like in flavour profile, although it has the finesse that is synonymous with this estate. Excellent. Tasted at the property.