Pichon Comtesse Réserve, Pauillac,

The success of Pichon over recent years extends to its second wine also, and this delivers waves of cassis bud and red roses on the opening beats, followed up by vibrant raspberry and and blackberry fruits, easier drinking than the powerhouse 2022. A vintage that sees 50 years of Pichon Comtesse Reserve (once known, of course, as Reserve de la Comtesse). 55% of the production, more than usual because they were focusing so much on Cabernet for the main wine. Nicolas Glumineau director.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 Pichon Comtesse Reserve rolls out with evocative notes of ripe black cherries, redcurrant jelly, and boysenberries plus underlying hints of wild sage, wet slate, and damp soil. The medium-bodied palate is so fresh and elegant, with gentle powdery tannins supporting the delicate black fruit flavors, finishing on a lingering mineral note. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. This is a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon than is typical, a sign of the future since more of this variety is being planted.

The 2023 Réserve de la Comtesse has a lovely bouquet, discrete initially, then opening with cassis and light violet fruit. It never shouts too loudly at this early stage. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins on the entry. There’s also a stronger graphite element than I have noticed in recent vintages, due to the higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%). This is a classically styled Réserve.