Château Pontet Canet, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2010
Pontet Canet is the first 1855 classified Chateau to be certified as biodynamic. About a quarter of the vineyards are ploughed by horses and the Tesserons intend to expand this practice across the whole estate. The 2010 is produced from 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. There was no green harvesting, no de-stemming and no de-budding; the vines are allowed to run wild - a technique called bridging, which results in less canopy covering. There is an almost Burgundian style to this such is the purity and complexity. Notes of liquid minerals, ripe mulberries, crème de mûre, graphite and violets. On the palate this is effortless, this is so svelte with wonderful clarity and texture. It is dense, but light; it dances across the palate. The team used a very light extraction and no pigage. Suave, sensual and very complete.
critic reviews
Velvety tannins, intense with a black cherry and luscious creamy blackberry, fresh fig and raspberry fruits, with tobacco, liquorice, cedar, sandalwood, fennel. It's a wine to love, higher alcohol than usual in Pauillac which gives weight and texture through the mid palate, but the tannins are powerful enough to keep things confidently in check, and it is just starting to move into its drinking window. Harvest September 29 to October 17. First year of biodynamic certification.
The 2010 Pontet-Canet is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-black in color, it sashays out of the glass with opulent scents of Chinese five spice, smoked meats, and cigar box, over a core of prunes, redcurrant jelly, and fruitcake with a waft of espresso. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a firm, grainy structure with tons of freshness supporting the decadent spice and fruit preserves layers, finishing with great length. It is delicious to drink now!
The 2010 Pontet-Canet is noticeably deep in colour compared to its peers. This is unusually ripe and sweet on the nose, more red than black fruit, maybe a little jammy and confit-like. I would never guess this was a 2010 Left Bank. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy mouthfeel, plenty of graphite tinged red fruit. Approachable in style and sensually fulfilling, it just lacks a bit of grip and backbone on the finish. I have fonder memories of previous bottles but I could not identify any specific fault. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.