Château Pontet Canet, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2009
This is the best Pontet Canet since the magnificent 2010. After more than a decade somewhat in the doldrums, Pontet is back with a beautiful 2023. Justine explained they had a bit of rain in March and June, but they didn't really experience much mildew pressure. Two heat spikes late August and early September required a little kaolin sunscreen, which they adopted in 2022 to cope with the extreme conditions. She describes the 2023 as "éclatant", which is roughly translated as brilliant or bright, an apt depiction. Somewhat muted initially, then revealing hints of dark mulberry and violets. This is measured with a clarity to the dark, mineral fruit; there's also a mineral seam at its core that provides freshness. Lots of clear textured fruit framed by sumptuous, plush tannins. This graceful, unforced style really suits Pontet Canet; a wine of impeccable balance with a long cassis, mineral and fine salt finish. Excellent. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, matured in 50% new oak, 35% amphorae and 15% one year old barrels.
critic reviews
Beautifully deep ruby colour, deliciously brambled fruits, cigar box, chocolate drops, mint leaf, confident and cradling tannins, this is a beautiful wine, easy and luxurious. The estate was in organic conversion at this point, not yet certified. Great quality. Jean-Michel Comme technical director.
Deep garnet colored, the 2009 Pontet-Canet prances out of the glass with exuberant notes of black cherry preserves, warm cassis, and boysenberries, followed by a powerful perfume of star anise, candied violets, fallen leaves, and crushed rocks. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is packed with decadently rich, sensuous black berry preserves and exotic spices flavors, backed by a velvety texture and seamless freshness, finishing with epic length. Stunning.
Deep garnet in color, the 2009 Pontet-Canet slips sensuously from the glass with opulent scents of creme de cassis, baked plums and Black Forest cake plus suggestions of Chinese five spice, potpourri, oolong tea and menthol. Full-bodied, rich, spicy and oh-so-decadent in the mouth, it has a fantastically velvety frame and seamless freshness, finishing very long.
The 2009 Pontet-Canet needs more encouragement from the glass than its peers, but it rewards the imbiber with seductive pure cassis and blackberry fruit, touches of autumn leaves and pencil box. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannin, a lovely bead of acidity. A harmonious, brown spice and smoke tinged finish fans out with confidence. You could open this now but it still has two more decades of drinking pleasure to give. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.