Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, Grand Cru Classé,

Showing how it's done in 2022, Domaine de Chevalier comes in strong with a deep ruby red colour, a vibrant rim, smoked oak on the nose, edges of tar, red roses, liquorice root, and a confident delivery of full-on tannic architecture that frames the cassis and bilberry fruit. Delivers vintage signature in a carefully controlled way, with enough slate, pummice stone, mint and eucalyptus to balance things out and slow down delivery. The fruits are fully ripe, heading towards baked plum and fig, but met step by step with a corresponding cooling flavour. 40th harvest of Olivier Bernard (meaning a special label).

A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, the 2022 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge is deep garnet-purple in color. It prances out of the glass with show-stopping scents of wild blueberries, black raspberries, and redcurrant preserves, leading to suggestions of candied violets, cinnamon stick, and fragrant soil. The medium to full-bodied palate is elegantly styled, with bright, nuanced black and red berry layers beautifully supported by fine-grained tannins and wonderful tension, leading to a very long and perfumed finish on this stunning wine. pH 3.64.

The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier was picked from 5-30 September and represents the 40th vintage under the irrepressible Olivier Bernard, who celebrates with a one-off label. It soars from the glass with take-no-prisoner aromatics: perfumed mineral-rich red berry fruit, incense and black truffle. Pessac-like earthiness with an opposing airiness defines many a great wine from this estate. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. Slightly powdery in texture and saline in the mouth, this gets the saliva flowing. However, the arching structure on the finish suggests it will require considerable bottle age. Cellar this for a couple of decades, and you'll be repaid handsomely. 14% alcohol.