Pommard, Clos des Epenots, 1er Cru, 2022

If a wine was needed to remind Burgundy fanatics of the gulf that separates Pommard’s ‘old’ image of big burly Pinots with the delicately fruited elegance of so many wines being produced there today, this might be it. Crystalline red fruits hang from a very fine structure, which is elongated and translucent, tapering to a long whispered finish complete with bright mineral streaks and fine detail. Raspberry, white flowers, and salted red peach notes. Intense but lightly handled. The domaine has a sizeable 3.7ha of Epenots, one of the great Pommard climats producing wines of great finesse and longevity. The vines were planted between 1948 and 1978 and the soils here are well-draining.