critic reviews
The 2002 Montrachet Grand Cru, a vintage that I had never tasted before, shows extremely well. It has an intense, multifaceted bouquet that offers compelling aromas of dried honey, white flowers and a French patisserie aroma, all beautifully defined. The palate has the weight and density one expects from a Montrachet. It feels very harmonious, with a spicy front end and a persistent, oyster-shell-tinged back end. This is a very convincing Montrachet that appears to be aging with real style. Tasted at La Paulée in Beaune.
Spices, minerals, ginger, and pears can be discerned in the aromatics of the 2002 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche. Harvested at 14.1% natural potential alcohol, it is a deep, medium-bodied, sappy wine with an admirably long finish. This is consistently the wine Maison Drouhin gives the longest elevage to, something the 2002 will benefit from, as it needs to flesh out its somewhat tight mid-palate. Projected maturity: 2006-2015. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770