critic reviews
Between 1978 and 2007, this 1998 is the greatest Vieux Telegraphe that was produced. It has taken a good decade for this wine to shed its tannins and come out of a dormant, closed period. It has finally emerged, and notes of iodine, seaweed, black currants, incense, and sweet cherries as well as hot rocks jump from the glass of this full-bodied, powerful wine. It possesses considerable elegance and purity, along with loads of raspberries and incense, in a round, juicy, rich style that is just emerging from the closet. The wine is still youthful and a pre-adolescent in terms of its ultimate evolution. Approachable now, it will continue to evolve for another 15-20 years. Bravo!
Good full medium ruby. Complex nose combines black fruits, nuts and flowers; strong peppery, vegetal suggestion of young syrah. Quite tight and rather powerfully styled, with an herbaceous suggestion of youthful syrah. Like the '99, this is tannic, but here the tannins are sweeter and more thoroughly buffered by fruit. Built for aging; may ultimately merit a higher score.