Pinot Noir, Centgrafenberg, Grosses Gewächs, 2021

The Centgrafenberg is exquisite. Citrus, orange and Campari notes play in a flock of lifted red fruits. Naturally, there is more concentration and structure here, but the balance is beautiful. A certain crispness to the acidity and briskness to the red and black berries is about the only tell that it comes from a cooler vintage – it is certainly not heavy, nor does the oak dominate at all. Sebastian is confident that his 2021s will go the distance, aging on acid rather than density. On this showing we’d agree – though the wines should be tucked away for a few years. Centgrafenberg has always served as the ‘home’ vineyard of the estate and the steep vineyard terraces here mean that the grapes rarely struggle to achieve good ripeness. Fermented with a slightly reduced 65% whole clusters and aged in French barrique.