Pinot Noir, Centgrafenberg, Grosses Gewächs, 2023
Super elegant, not heavy or forced, this GG builds with silky, effusive spicy red fruits and fine mineral grip. Intense and persistent yet the whole feels a touch lighter and neater than the Bürgstadter Berg, which as a Premier Cru reveals its succulence of fruit earlier. Centgrafenberg has always served as the ‘home’ vineyard of the estate and the steep vineyard terraces here mean that the grapes rarely struggle to achieve good ripeness. Fermented with whole clusters and aged in French barrique.
critic reviews
The 2023 Spatburgunder Centgrafenberg GG is deep, intense and rather coolish on the aromatic, concentrated nose that reveals toasty notes of unthawing frozen cherries, dark berries and hints of tar or graphite. Silky, very refined yet intense and even rich on the palate, this is a powerful, seamlessly textured Pinot that is a little bit creamy and has young but ripe and very fine tannins that intermingle with fine salinity. The finish is still tight and a little biting, but the wine is powerful and intense enough for positive development over the years. After the first tasting in August, this assessment is therefore still rather cautious. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in December 2025.